EVER WONDER WHAT IT WOULD BE LIKE, IF LSD, FOR
INSTANCE, WOULD GROW EVERYWHERE, LIKE THE GRASS
ON YOUR FRONT LAWN. WELL LSD DOESN'T. BUT DMT,
IT'S EVERYWHERE, PROBABLY ON YOUR FRONT LAWN,
TOO. EVERYBODY KNOWS MUSHROOMS. AND THE AMAZO-
NIAN VIROLAS. BUT HAVE YOU EVER HEARD OF
[Text may contain incorrect information! Please - before using any of
the advice, please use your head - 'Is this info reasonable?', 'Are these
figures right?' If in doubt/higher state of knowledge than I am,
plllleeeease mail me. &&&N. Ipo]
[I am sure you all understood that this is strictly FOR INFORMATIONAL
PURPOSES ONLY. I am not asking you people to do this, only presenting my
own and others' views. And remember all you guys and gals out there -
love each other.]
S. T. R. Essing
Rant & Rave
Phalaris arundinacea, reed canary grass, grows everywhere in the world
outside the polar regions. In Europe, Northern and Eastern Asia (partly in
Central-), In North America from New Brunswick to the Southeastern parts of
Alaska, from North Carolina to New Mexico, Arizona and Northeastern parts
of California. Also in New Zealand. As for Finland (and Scandinavia) where
I live, it grows on rocky shores througout the country. It is common.
Phalaris aquatica, also known as P. tuberosa, is native to the mediterranean
region, but as a result of agromomic interest and investigation that followed
has wide distribution in grassland regions. Most probably this plant can
be found in Mediterranean, southern Australia and in US California,
Missisippi or Oregon [areas where native aquatica has been found]. Note
that this grass can be found in several other places as (escaped) cultivar.
There are several other Phalarii, such as californica, canariensis, minor
and arundinacea-aquatica hybrids. Excluding the hybrid these are of little
interest, except taxonomically. No DMT have been found in any of these.
Most likely Phalaris grows on lake- and riverbanks and on seashores,
especially rocky. It is often accompanied by Festuca arundinacea,
Angelica archangelica ssp. litoralis, Sochus arvensis and Veronica
longifolia. Phalaris grows often in rings and in the middle of
the spot grows Calla palustris and Bidens-species. Tufts it forms are
often only phalaris, but Phragmites, Carex acuta and Iris pseudoacorus
may grow amidst it. And especially watch out for Dactylis glomerata,
which looks much like Phalaris, but is smaller and has lobed inflorescence.
Phalaris arundinacea is tall grass, usually about 1 meter up to 2 m., 4
to 7 jointed, hard and smooth (sometimes reddish), leaves 7 to 30 cm long
and 1-2.5 cm wide. The "flower" is 10 cm long, dense, the seed is appr.
1,7 mm. Pictures and very accurate descriptions of this grass are
easy to find in any library (and I would recommend finding several).
Perennial from scaly, creeping rhizomes; culms [stems] 50-150 cm tall;
leaves usually green, occasionally striped with white (in f. picta);
panicle [inflorescence?] 7-40 cm long, lobed and branched at the base,
the branches up to 5 cm long, spreading during anthesis; glumes 3.5-
7.5 mm long, more or less equal, acute, usually wingless, when winged,
the wing very narrow and inconspicuous, glabrous or with a few appressed
scattered hairs; sterile florets 2, 1.2-2.3 mm long ; subutate, pubescent;
grain 1.5-2 mm long, 0.7-1.0 mm wide, subovoid brown with faintly striate
surface; somatic chromosome number 14, 27, 28, 20, 30, 31, 35, or 42; the
chromosomes cs. 5.0 um long at diakinesis.
Perennial; culms from a dense crown or a loose base with short rhizomes,
culms often bulbous at the base, up to 1.5 m tall; panicle 1.5-11.0 cm
long, 1.0-2.5 cm wide, usually cylindric, sometimes ovate-cylindric,
occasionally lobed at the base; glumes 4.4-7.5 mm long, 1.0-2.0 mm wide,
glabrous, rarely hisute, broadly winged, the wing almost always entire,
rarely somewhat erose; fertile floret 3.1-4.6 mm long, 1.2-1.5 mm wide,
lanceolate, densely pubescent; sterile florets 1 or sometimes 2, 0.2-
2.2 mm long, when 2 are present the lowermost is often less than 0.5
mm long; caryopsis 2.2-2.5 mm long, 1.2-1.3 mm wide, light brown, surface
faintly striate; chromosome number n=28, the chromosomes ca. 6-7 um
long at diakinesis.
Alkaloid-contents vary considerably in both P. arundinacea and P.
aquatica (From study to study AND in real life). Percentages are
_total_ alkaloid contents, not DMT-contents.
Either way these _percentages_are_good_only_for_illustrating_the
considerable _variation_. There is now way of knowing your plants
alkaloid content without chromatography equipment.
P. arundinacea may contain anything from 0.004% of the dry
plant matter to 0.121% of the dry plant matter.
P. aquatica may contain anything from 0.007 of the dry plant
matter to 0.18% of the dry plant matter.
[So one might have to smoke about an pound of it, or one might have to
To be certain all the extraction procedures are worth the try one has
to try to maximize the alkaloid content by choosing right strain, and
by growing this strain right.
Growing Phalaris is _very_ easy - it is an grass that can tolerate
floods and extreme drought. A plant dug out of the ground and left
without any water for 6 days suffers only minor wilting. Severe
wilting occurs after drought over 9 days in duration. Placing the
whole plant underwater doesn't kill the plant.
To achieve optimum alkaloid-level, however, takes some skill. Time never
stops, and everyone wants to get their phalaris as big and trypty in
as short time as possible. Parts you are after are leaves - leaves have
the highest alkaloid contents - so dont harvest anything else -
highest alkaloid concentrations are found in immature grass and leaf
blades, lowest in leaf sheaths, stems and roots.
Starting from seeds is easy. Get some shallow (10 cm/4") pots. Tray
with edges will do, bucket is fine - anything that can hold some soil
together, something that doesn't rot or suck the water from the soil.
Regular plastic pots are fine. Dont use clay/unglazed ceramic pots, these
Place soil in the container, wet it thoroughly, and place seeds on the
soil. You can soak the seeds for 24 or 12 or 6 hours before if you want
to - this will speed up the process a bit. Cover the seeds with thin layer
of soil (say like 3 mm). Spray the soil with water, and cover the container
with clear plastic so that humidity stays high. If you can raise the
temperature couple of degrees (23-25 C), seeds will germinate faster.
After couple of days first sprouts should be visible, remove the plastic.
Optimum temperature for vegetative growth would be about 20-22 C degrees.
Alkaloids in phalarii can be increased with stressing. Stressing, on
the other hand, slows the growth and decreases the total yield. I will
refer to any action that increases the total alkaloid-yield by stressing.
These methods work for both P. arundinacea and aquatica.
There are three basic methods in stressing: clipping, shading and moisture-
Clipping is relatively easy. Take clean scissors into your right hand,
hold the plant still with your left hand, and |SNIP|, your plant just got
stressed. But simply clipping the plants shorter will decrease your total
yield. Wait until the plant is about 10 or 20 cm (1/2 ' ) high. Cut right
above the leaf. Wait until you get another leaf, above which to cut, could
be two days or two weeks.
Clipping increases tryptamine content by 50 % to even 400%. The amount of
betacarbolines is _roughly_ doubled.
Shading is quite controversial issue. Shading slows the growth, and seems
to affect different strains different ways. I will try to shed some light
into shadows. First of all, you will probably grow your plants indoors,
and if these plants are not on the windowsill, they will not be receiving
anything near the light plants outdoors do, where all the studies are made.
Forget shading. If you grow yours outdoors/near good light source,
shading might be useful. Shade the plants for their last 1/4th or 1/5th of
In practice, placing a sheet of glass/plexiglass or a thin net between the
plants and the light source should work. Glass eats anything from couple
to 20% (dirty) of the light.
Amount of shading is quite troublesome, too. General mean value would be
maybe 5 to 15%. Arundinacea responds to smaller shifts, halve the figures.
Shading increases the tryptamine content by 20 to 30%.
Moisture-stressing is also quite easy. You dont water for a week or so.
Interestingly, plants droughted for a long time, produce some unknown
alkaloid. Young plants respond better to drought, whereas older (+30)
may not show any response in respect to the alkaloid content. Regrowths
grown from droughted plants (which did not show response) had a higher
alkaloid content. If you wilt, wilt young plants. No water for a period
of 5 to 10 days. If any damage (brown leaf tips etc.) begins to show,
stop wilting. Note that although the plants cannot be rotted to death
with overwatering, it slows the growth. Let the soil dry out between
Moisture stress may as much as double the alkaloid content.
To get high leaf mass, your plant needs high amounts of water, light,
and nutrients. Nutrients, on the other hand, have been shown to have
a negative effect on the alkaloid content - adequate fertilization may
in fact lower the total alkaloid content. And stressing decreases the
leaf mass. So you must walk the fine line between these two.
Make a growing program, divided in 4 to 8 parts. During certain parts
you maximise the leaf mass. And during certain parts you maximise the
Simon Sez grows Phalaris aquatica. 1st period goes almost entirely
to germination, as the seeds dry out a bit, "Whatta dumb mistake,"
Simon thinks, as third of the seeds wont germinate anymore.
2nd and 3 rd period Simon has dedicated for growth. Simon gives
the plants nutrients; during 2nd period complete, well balanced
N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) and micronutrient (Zn,B,Cu,
Fe, Mn, etc.) fertilizer, and during 3rd only natural nitrogen.
Every now and then he snips the top off 'em.
4th period is about fasting - Simon gives plants no water.
During the 5th Simon begins to feel sorry for the plants and after
giving them adequate, but not too much!, watering, lets them grow.
And at the beginning of the 6th period, Simon thinks that its time
to chill out a bit, so he sneaks the plants into large fridge his
friend has (after giving it a dose of nitrogen fertilization).
Just for a night. Its always above 0 C, but below 6 C.
Last days the plants get to grow normally. Then Simon strips the
leaves, and lets the plants do their own thing for a while, as he tries
to put together the wheat grass juicer he got without any instructions.
That would theoretically make 200% for the clipping, 25% for the 4th,
10-200% for the 6th. But in reality the increase in tryptamines cannot
be calculated so easily. But lot anyhow. Simon smiles happily.
The period lenght is also important - alkaloid content rises steadily
as the plant grows, and is highest at 30 to 50 days. Simon had 7 day
Fertilizers - problematic. Dont use good, rich soil - if the plants get
enough of micronutrients, alkaloid content is diminished. Mix regular
gradening soil with sand and rocks to get a good mix (for example 1/3rd
of each). When the plant is young, ensure adequate nutrition with
liquid fertilizers, then move to only nitrogen fertilization, and
finally give only water (for example first quarter, second quarter and
last half, resp.). This makes plants grow fast, big and finally tryptish.
Phalaris can use fairly large amounts of fertilizers, but stick to the
instructions of the manufacturer until you know what you are doing. Urine
is an excellent excellent nitrogen fertilizer - add about half an
desiliter (2 oz) per liter of water (1/5gallon?) - fully organic and
Cloning - an easy way to get more plants. First pick your best plant -
healthy, big and high in alkaloids. Wait till you harvest, and then cut
the whole stem off, place it underwater, glass or a bucket does fine,
cut in 3 cm pieces, add small amounts of seaweed/-extract/auxins and
wait couple of days. After that place pieces in pots, and keep humid.
It might take as long as 3 weeks for first signs of life, but try to
keep the soil relatively humid - not wet, humid. Excess water may
attract molds and fungi. You can also take part of the rhizome (root)
and do the same thing. Leaves are of no use here, they will only rot
Harvesting the fruits of labor is very easy. Simply cut out the leaves.
If you like you can leave one leaf to speed up the process. Remove
parts of the stem above the leaf. Plant will continue growing for a
long time. Repotting the plant or dividing the rhizomes often gives
plant new vigour. Do this couple of times a year.
Time of the day has no effect on the tryptamine content if you are
growing indoors or in an greenhouse. Outside, morning harvest may rise
If you are producing seeds - dont clip, have at least four of such plants,
all from different sources, and of good strain. Let these grow, and when
the seed production has started, place a clear bag over the flower. Bags
made of loose nylon mesh are best. Plants produced from seed often
have more energy than plants that have been cloned from a clone (and so-on).
Produce seeds at least once in two years to ensure the vigour of your
Extraction of DMT and 5-MeO-DMT, which it contains, is relatively simple.
However one should get some basic information on chemistry and the
substances used in process as some of them are poisonous.
To find good substitutes, please see solvent FAQ, or some chem-books.
Following extraction is relatively efficient.
You need acid "A" (Hydrochloride, vinegar or acetic acid), defatting
solution "B" (Methylene chloride, naphta, acetone), base "C" (Ammonium
hydroxide, lye), kettle, filter or cheesecloth, two containers, extraction
funnel [or turkey baster =)], pH meter or paper.
Find all this equipment, read and understand how the extraction works,
and find a place you can do it in. Harvest.
If you have fresh grass, place it in freezer overnight. Next morning
take it out, let it soften just a bit and place it in blender or juicer
or chopper and blow it to pieces. If you want to be thorough, you can
freeze it again after first chopping, and chop again next morning. This
is done to rupture the cells of the plant to free as much of the alkaloids
Dried grass pulverizes (literally!) easily in blender. Dont open the lid
immediately, or some of your finest powder will float away.
Add small amounts of water to make the mush/powder pourable. This is
called Mixture. You can now begin.
 Converting alkaloids to salts.
Add acid ("A") to the Mixture to bring the pH down to 5.
Add small amounts, check pH, add small etc. etc.
Alkaloids react with the acid and form salts. To ensure that large portion
of the alkaloids really do this, give the Mixture time and some heat (less
than 50 C); dont boil. Simmer it overnight with a lid on.
 Removing unwanted oils.
Place the Mixture in the funnel. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of
defatting solvent ("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake. Let the Mixture and the
solvent separate; they will form two different layers, and oils and fats
will move to the solvent layer.
Separate solvent and Mixture layers, and throw away the solvent layer.
Mixture no longer has solvent-soluable oils or fats.
 Converting the alkaloid-salts to freebase-form.
Add base ("C") to the Mixture to bring the pH up to 9.5.
Add small amounts, check pH, add small etc. etc.
Alkaloid-salts react with the base and convert into freebase-form, making
them non-water soluable, but soluable to your solvent ("B").
 Removing the alkaloids from the Mixture.
This is similar to step 2.
Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of solvent ("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake hard.
Wait until the solvent and Mixture form different layers.
Separate solvent and mixture. Put the solvent (which now holds some
of the alkaloids) in some container to wait.
Repeat  three more times, and wait a week each time before separating
the solvent and the mixture.
 Preparing the alkaloids for smoking.
Place the solvents in some shallow container and allow to evaporate.
Do this in either very well ventilated space or outside. No smoking or
open fire near the solvent. This takes several days.
Solvent evaporates, leaving behind orange (color varies) substance, that
may be hard or gummy. Scrape this off the container. You now have extracted
DMT, 5-MeO-DMT, Bufotenine and some other alkaloids from the plants.
If you need to add some smokable material to this tar, simply add some
solvent or alcohol (spirits over 40% of total alcohol in volume). Mix
in the material (organo is fine), and let the liquid evaporate.
As for dosage, the person extracting the alkaloids should do everything
with relative accuracy - it is easy to maintain the same dosage later.
Dosage would be confirmed by experimentation - first 1/4 gram, if nothing
1/2 gram, and so on...
Once a good strain of Phalaris has been found, complicated time- and effort
consuming extraction with solvents and bases may not be necessary.
Simply find a good wheat grass juicer and juice fresh leaves, evaporate
the resulting liquid in an shallow container and gather the resulting dark
A quick extraction with acetic acid or lemon juice follows.
Pulverize dried Phalaris leaves. Mix powder with 1/3 acetic acid or
lemon juice and 2/3 water-solution. Let simmer for 12 hours.
Filter the liquid, put it aside, and in another solution-mix, simmer
the mush for 12 hours. Filter again, combine liquids, and put in shallow
container and allow to evaporate. Resulting goo _may_or_may_not_be
psychoactive. I have not done this extraction myself.
There is no way of knowing how much DMT will be in your extraction.
Start low and aim carefully. Never smoke more than quarter of a gram
your first time. If you get no psychoactive effects from this dose,
double it. Continue until you find suitable dose.
Phalaris, mushrooms and homegrown cannabis are good ways to disconnect
yourself from the criminal underground, the drug wars, from this mad
society of of ours. LSD, for instance, produces bad feeling because of
its illegality, and because you have to be in contact with criminals,
who often get their income mainly from heroin or amphetamines (read
violence and darkness). We are approaching the year 2000 and one look
around makes me sick - planet is beginning to feel sick from the poison
it has produced, humans, and will soon begin to get rid of us. We humans
ourselves feel sick in our warped societies amidst concrete and machines,
away from the nature. PollutionWARSviolenceMONEYsadnessdestructionINSANITY
Yes, we know whats going on. All too well, most of us just want to escape,
into television reality, into drug-induced realities, and us at the net,
into net-reality... Speaking doesn't do much, too little too slowly... this
whole race needs a boot in the head before getting it. The kicker is
Mother Nature, and the boot is DMT.
Most Psychedelic drugs are just like other drugs - LSD, 2CB, MDMA, you name
it - human made, tied to the society, in the hands of international crime
and shackles of our states. Altered conciousness made dirty with crime and
drug prohibition wars, and in the end connected to the deadly virus that
has humanity by its throat - MONEY.
There is no longer need to subject yourself to any of those negative
forces. Mushrooms grow in abundance almost all over the world. Phalaris-
grass makes DMT available to almost anyone. Dont sell these - if necessary
give them away for free - selling makes the whole experience inpure.
The experience is not necessarily recreational - DMT is one of the most
powerful entheogens there is. Prepare yourself properly.